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pdg
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: CG 125 electrics Reply with quote

Anyone got a link to a wiring diagram? I'll trace it all and draw my own if it comes to it, but it's raining.

2004 CG125 (electric start only model).

Everything I've found on Google so far appears to be for kick only models so is quite different...
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its in foreign money but easy enough to follow

https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cmelectronica.com.ar%2Fwiring-diagram%2Fimagenes%2Fhonda-cg125-titan-ks-es.jpg&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=0f10399bbdb6436dba4e2ddd80e9b9cf9920e8a5e45349cce594678b0e17e5f5&ipo=images
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pdg
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ta muchly, closer than any I managed to find as yet.

Still doesn't seem quite right - there's what is listed on cmsnl as a "thermo switch" present on the bike that doesn't appear on the diagram that I'm struggling with (struggling in this instance = I saw it, found it on the parts list and said hmm, and haven't investigated further due to aforementioned rain).

The electrics seem minimally messed with, however part of the reason for looking is previous owner expressed difficulty in getting the indicators working correctly...
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the porfeshinal wiring on the flasher relay

Fowlers fiche lists a thermo switch too
but why would a cg125 need a thermo switch?
its air cooled and has no carb heater I can see.

I'm wondering if someone has confused it with with the diode
used in the starter circuit which basically stops the neutral light coming on when you pull the clutch

Edit
Checking the fiche again I see It shares this part with the XR125L which has a carb heater element presumably controlled by
the thermo switch in question, so in the case of the CG125 its a redundant part unless it has heated carb.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mechanical indicator relays rely on a bimetal strip and heat to make it switch thus 'thermo'....
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pdg
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, original flasher relay was a 3 wire too...

And, apart from the fact that I've forgotten how to embed images, I haz pics.

Thermomabob next to the diode, and electrocuted carbamatutor.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Mechanical indicator relays rely on a bimetal strip and heat to make it switch thus 'thermo'....


{pedant mode}

Indeed they do, current flows through the bimetal strip and heats it up which causes it to bend and disconnect the circuit, whereupon it cools and straightens out to remake the circuit and allow current to flow once more and recommence heating of the strip - this back and forth continues until the contacts weld shut, the bimetal strip fatigues and snaps off, the bulb blows or you remember to turn the indicators off, whichever occurs first.

The bimetallic strip is sized according to the load, a presented load outside these parameters can cause the relay to fail to disconnect and leave the indicators solidly illuminated or increase the flash rate.

{/pedant mode}

However, the "thermo switch" is a different physical entity to the flasher relay in this instance.

Also, hey Nobby, how've you been?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be worse, could be better.

The little bastard being diagnosed as ADHD has been a bit of a bastard, what with the threats to expel him etc. at 8.


Wht you are looking at on that diagram for the indicator relay is the 'Interrupter Da Embreagem' (excuse my portugese....)
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pdg
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Could be worse, could be better.

The little bastard being diagnosed as ADHD has been a bit of a bastard, what with the threats to expel him etc. at 8.


Wht you are looking at on that diagram for the indicator relay is the 'Interrupter Da Embreagem' (excuse my portugese....)


As long as it could be worse then that's a good day!


Yeah, found the flasher relay, but that's not the only issue I'm working out and tbh the flasher is just an amusing aside - the actual indicators are wired similarly (although they did at least put tape on those) and the flasher fuse keeps blowing. That's easy enough to fix though, it's simply a case of fixing it.

There's a relayesque thingy next to the flasher unit that flutters when I press the start button and the starter will not engage (unidentified so far, it's not the starter solenoid as that's elsewhere, ditto the reg/rec, the starter motor functions fine when I bypass the solenoid with the universal key aka tent peg and starts the bike, the bike runs fine).

It was the intention that it'd be quicker to look at a diagram to identify and test these parts rather than do it through experimentation, but that route is proving elusive...
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

What colour are the wires to your fluttering relay?
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pdg
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
What colour are the wires to your fluttering relay?


They're outside in the rain coloured at the mo - I'll have a look after dinner.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yellow with red trace
Blue with white trace
Green with red trace
Black with brown trace


Edit: it's in the pic a few posts up next to the orange flasher unit.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Y is yellow
L is blue

At this point Im really not finding anything in that wiring diagram that fits.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Y is yellow
L is blue

At this point Im really not finding anything in that wiring diagram that fits.


Nope, nor I.

Plus, in that diagram the reg/rec is 4 wire, mine is 5 - the cdi box has 5 wires on two connectors, mine has 4 on a single connector - the coil has a remote earth, mine is single wire and grounded on the mount - I can only find one fuse integrated with the starter solenoid on the diagram, I have a separate additional fusebox (which is on the cmsnl parts list) - there's probably more discrepancies if I look harder...

If I can't identify it contextually by tracing the wiring I can always expand the crack in the case and look inside to see whether it's actually a relay or not. Not sure whether the crack was existing and contributing to the fluttering or whether I broke it.


I mean, everything works except the indicators and the starting system - the indicators are easy enough to fix (the existing ones are all held together with yards of tape, I have a spare set anyway sat on a scrap chinky scoot as well as a selection of spare flasher units of various origin) and if I get pissed off with it I can scab on a different solenoid and button and pretend it's an anti-theft system...

It's really not a huge challenge to figure it out, but I'm just wimping out of playing with wires in the rain.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Presumably if four wires it's a relay, trigger, earth, triggered input, triggered output.

If fluttering the only thing I think of is marginal amps...
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pdg
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Presumably if four wires it's a relay, trigger, earth, triggered input, triggered output.

If fluttering the only thing I think of is marginal amps...


I'd usually agree with that, current pulling the voltage down so the coil doesn't stay energised - but the bike battery has plenty of oomph to start the bike bypassing the solenoid and it exhibits the same behaviour with a 33ah SLA jumpered on (my interpretation of a jump pack).

I'll keep digging for a suitable wiring diagram, or I'll draw my own - I should have some time to fiddle tomorrow between work.

In the meantime, any further speculation is more than welcome!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 06 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red on green is usually neutral light on a honda. Red on yellow is usually starter trigger.

This probably isn't helpful...

First thought is it's a starter relay used to trigger the solenoid which incorporates a neutral safety lockout. If it is, I'd expect the red on yellow to be live when the starter is pressed and the red on green to be earthed when the bike is in neutral.

That leaves two other wires, black is usually a switched live feed of some sort on a honda so I'd guess the white on blue goes to the solenoid.

Or I could be wrong.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 07 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aaaaaaalrighty then.

I decased it. It's a normally closed relay.

I also traced wiring.

Yellow/red and green/red are parallel with the starter solenoid coil.

Black/brown is ignition switched live.

Blue/white - goes to the headlight dip switch...


So - you turn on the key and press the starter button, this energises the starter solenoid coil and also the coil within this ex-mystery relay.

There is no light switch on this bike, just a dip switch. Lights are permanently on with the ignition.





It turns off the headlight when you press the starter.





It would appear that is done to reduce the load on the battery during cranking. I can think of no other reason (I suppose it may have a secondary function of ensuring the headlight bulb doesn't see a low voltage).


Other diagnosis - the fluttering was due to a poor contact in the harness connector from the starter button. It also wasn't cranking because the starter solenoid was stuck (I hit it on the floor and freed it up, shall likely replace).

Other fixes - The orange flasher unit had water in and was stuck, I stole the 3 wire flasher off the scrap chinky scoot and a chunk of the harness (to obtain the connector), crimped that in and indicators now function correctly. They're broken physically, but they work electrically (shall replace).


Still got a to-do list, but it's getting shorter.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 07 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Red on green is usually neutral light on a honda. Red on yellow is usually starter trigger.

This probably isn't helpful...

First thought is it's a starter relay used to trigger the solenoid which incorporates a neutral safety lockout. If it is, I'd expect the red on yellow to be live when the starter is pressed and the red on green to be earthed when the bike is in neutral.

That leaves two other wires, black is usually a switched live feed of some sort on a honda so I'd guess the white on blue goes to the solenoid.

Or I could be wrong.


So very close, see above.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 07 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be pedantic, I'd say Light green/red is neutral light onna nonda
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pdg
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 07 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's been all day and it's still working - so I'm declaring it temporarily fixed.

That part at least...
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pdg
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 08 May 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, this is going to turn into a show and tell, I found another indicator related electrical problem - in fact, it's highly likely that this particular thing is the root cause of all of it and it's been waiting since the bike was built 20 years ago...

As a taster, I shall drop two pairs of words on you:

Wiring loom.

Manufacturing defect.
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