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Any plumbers in da house? combi boiler question.

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owdamer
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Any plumbers in da house? combi boiler question. Reply with quote

I just got home from work, its snowing and my bloody heatings not come on.
I got a combi bolier, it seems to be operating ok if I turn the hot tap on in the bathroom & kitchen, but i'm not getting any heat to the radiators.
tried bleeding the rads & i just get cold water.
boiler pressure is ok.
any ideas??
other info, all rads have thermostats fitted.
i was wondering if pump is knackered, but if that was the case would i get hot water thru taps??
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you say the pressure is ok, what is it at?
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The Old Geeza
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Re: Any plumbers in da house? combi boiler question. Reply with quote

Owdamer wrote:
boiler pressure is ok.


What pressure? Should normally be somewhere between about 0.5bar and 2.5bar. Pressure's not too high, is it?

Quote:
any ideas??


I have an idea, but might not necessarily the problem Confused

Quote:
all rads have thermostats fitted.


Naughty Tut Tut At least one radiator in the system must be free from any such automatic valve Shocked

Quote:
i was wondering if pump is knackered, but if that was the case would i get hot water thru taps??


Yes, you'd still get hot water through the taps. The pump is only used for the central heating. Hot water is produced from the high pressure of the cold water entering the boiler before it passes through the heat exchanger.

On most modern combi-boilers there's a manually re-settable over-temperature trip. This does not reset automatically. It looks just like a standard bi-metal thermal cutout switch, but it has a very small (usually red or brown) button on the back of it - in the centre of where the spade terminals connect for the electrical connections. Search the insides of the boiler for one of these and check to see if the button has popped out. If so, turn off the mains electricity supply to the boiler, push the button back in and then turn the electric back on.

As I said, this may not be the problem, but it's a starting point.

All the best Thumbs Up


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Last edited by The Old Geeza on 19:37 - 03 Mar 2006; edited 3 times in total
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Johnny GSX-R
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has a seperate control to switch the radiators on/off.........have you switched yours off.

My hot water still flows but it cancels out the radiator pump.
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owdamer
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had the plumber round. the pumps cream crackered. he's replaced the pump but we're having problems getting it all going again coz we air locks and the water pressure here is so low it cant shift the air out....
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feef
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

may combi boilers have a sealed, pressurised heating circuit. Bleeding the radiators only lets the pressure out the system, and lessens the effectiveness of the heating,

if it's a sealed system, there's no way for the air to get in, as if there was a leak, water would b escaping since it's under pressure, unlike a standard, open boiler,header tank system.

a
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Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 22:48 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

to free air from the system run boiler for about a minute then switch off , go round and bleed all radiators, repeat as many times as is necessary. you'll know when there free as you'll hear gurgling as air finds it way to the highest point.

any plumber worth his salt should have bleed all the radiators for you.

in fact any plumber worth his salt should have just isolated the boiler on the flow and return coming into your boiler and not drained down your system, thus eliminating the need to bleed radiators etc..


rob
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

While we're on the subject... I've got a combi boiler system and lately the pressure from my hot water tap has all but disappeared. Also I have to run the tap for ages (4 to 5 minutes) till the water heats up. Once it's going the water is roasting though. Any ideas. Confused
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Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 22:58 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
may combi boilers have a sealed, pressurised heating circuit. Bleeding the radiators only lets the pressure out the system, and lessens the effectiveness of the heating,

if it's a sealed system, there's no way for the air to get in, as if there was a leak, water would b escaping since it's under pressure, unlike a standard, open boiler,header tank system.



all combi boilers are sealed systems. Very Happy

it isn't entirely true that air can't enter a sealed system. you can get what are called micro leaks which allow vapours and other gas into and out of the system. it is very unlikely but not impossible for air to enter a sealed heating system.

it all depends where on the system the micro leak is if its on the flow it will allow gas out as this is under positve pump presure, and if its on the return then this will allow gases into the system as this is under negative pump presure.
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Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 23:03 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Posted: 21:53 - 03 Mar 2006 Post subject:



While we're on the subject... I've got a combi boiler system and lately the pressure from my hot water tap has all but disappeared. Also I have to run the tap for ages (4 to 5 minutes) till the water heats up. Once it's going the water is roasting though. Any ideas.


does the boiler fire imeadiately the tap is opened?

has the presure and the temperature of the hot water been affected?
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it doesn't always fire up when the tap is opened. It's as if it's not detecting the drop in pressure of the tap opening.(is this how it knows when to kick in?) The temperature is fine and the cold water pressure is great too.
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Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 23:09 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like the flow switch is fu(ked


when tap is opened water flows through boiler and past a diaphram causing a drop in presure which moves diaphram.

daiphram is in a brass casting with a flat plate on about 2-3" round

in the centre or this casting is a little pin which should move freely with the diaphram and actuate a micro switch.

get someone to turn tap on and check that diaphram operates micro switch. if it does then its electrical either micro switch, poor connection or dodgy pcb. if the diaphram doesn't move then then its siezed give it some wd40 and hope it frees it until it can be replaced

all the best

rob
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 03 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, I'll get on to that over the weekend. Thumbs Up
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Noggin
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the diverter valve diaphragm is fooked...

The rubber diaphragm can perish and cause them not to make the microswitch which lights the burner. If there's a hole in the diaphragm, the water gets on both sides and prevents it from lifting the pin up to make the switch, preventing the burner coming on.


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True Blue
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boiler is only about a year and a half old too. Confused It's a Vokera compact. Even if the diaphram is fooked, why is the flow rate so bad? Neutral
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owdamer
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems we need a diverter valve. He fitted a new pump yesterday, but thats not entirely cured it. The pump he took out was caked in brown crap and not turning. (I saw his take it out so i know its not one he brought with him!).
At the mo the heating is partially working. there is ONE rad without a thermostat. That one is getting warm, and the one nearest the boiler is getting warm. We're just not getting heat to any of the others.
got a fan heater going in the front room to keep us warm at the mo, and i've got an electric panel heater in the bedroom for later....
just have to grin & bear it for now.
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Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 19:04 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Boiler is only about a year and a half old too. It's a Vokera compact. Even if the diaphram is fooked, why is the flow rate so bad?


at the bottom of the boiler the cold main into the boiler should have a strainer of some sort fitted to catch crud before it goes into boiler and does serious damage, check that first just turn water off at main before undoing any joints or a cold and wet surprise awiats.

haven't come across many vokeras so not that familar with them off the top of my head.

all the best

rob
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The Old Geeza
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

True Blue wrote:
Boiler is only about a year and a half old too. Confused It's a Vokera compact. Even if the diaphram is fooked, why is the flow rate so bad? Neutral


Not in a 'hard' water area are you?

Got any fancy 'flow pattern'/restrictors on your taps (these are little bits of screw-in plastic things at the very end of the tap outlet to make the flow look better)?

If so, it might - but just might - be limescale build-up. This restricts the water flow and the pressure doesn't drop sufficiently in the boiler diverter diaphram to switch the water flow to the heat exchanger Confused

What is the water temperature like when the central heating is running ?

Just asking Thumbs Up




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owdamer
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Limescale? no a problem here. our water is as soft as a baby's bottom. Why do you think the cotton industry was so big here!.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

No limescale here. Water is like Volvic. I do have those fancy pattern bits on my taps, but funnily enough not on the hot water on as it fell off. The cold water pressure is ace though and the hot water temperature is good too.
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owdamer
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 04 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Our water pressure is shite. takes forever to fill a bucket up.
if you turn the downstairs tap on the upstairs wont work..
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Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 09:35 - 05 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

are all hot taps effected or just one?

what sort of taps have you got, are they fancy 1/4 turn ones (ceramic disk)? these can block really easily.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 05 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

All taps are affected, though obviously the ones upstairs are worse.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 05 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

What part is it I want to check? Is it part number 3?
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 15:51 - 05 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh God, go and get a Corgi registered plumber out.

Its usually an arm and a leg, but at least you won't blow the house up, LOL.

I have fond memories of my boiler suddenly starting to go "CHUG CHUG CHUG" when I pressed the wrong button during a diagnostic voyage of discovery, one day when our hot water got fucked up. Never seen my mate Longshanks move so fast out the front door before.

And my brave bloke standing there ankle deep in water and pressing other buttons desperately like a boy with his finger in the dike, and shouting at us all to get out.

Luckily, he pressed something that stopped it chugging Laughing
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